How to read a CCC valuation report: 8 checks for errors

Your insurer sent a PDF called a Market Valuation Report, sometimes 20 pages long, and most people read only the number on the first page. The rest of the CCC valuation report is where the number comes from: your car’s description, its condition ratings and the comparable vehicles the value is built on. Errors in those pages can move the value by hundreds or thousands of dollars, and they are easy to find once you know where to look. If you want the overall picture first, start with our guide to what to do when a total loss offer is too low.

In this guide

• What a CCC valuation report is
• The sections, in order
• 8 checks to find errors
• What to do when you find one
• Common questions

What a CCC valuation report is

CCC is a company that insurers hire to estimate what a vehicle was worth before a loss. The report states that it “reflects CCC Information Services Inc.’s opinion as to the value of the loss vehicle, based on information provided to CCC” by the insurer. It is also “prepared exclusively for use by” that insurer, and it says that “CCC is one source of vehicle valuations, and there are other valuation sources available.” So the report is one vendor’s opinion, using information the insurer supplied. It is not an independent appraisal, and it can be wrong.

Everything below describes the layout of a sample CCC ONE report. Insurers can configure what their reports show and the format changes over the years, so yours may be arranged differently or include extra lines. CCC also publishes its own guide to reading the report. For the step-by-step logic behind the numbers, see how total loss value is calculated.

The sections, in order

Section	What it shows	What to look for
Report summary	Claim details, the loss vehicle, odometer, and the base vehicle value, adjusted vehicle value and total.	Your name, vehicle, loss date and odometer. The total is not the full settlement.
Valuation methodology	A plain description of how CCC found and adjusted the comparables.	Nothing to correct, but it tells you which inputs matter: ZIP code, VIN, mileage, equipment, condition.
Vehicle information	VIN, year, make, model, trim, body style, engine, transmission, drivetrain and an equipment list.	Wrong trim, engine or drivetrain, and options missing from the list.
Vehicle condition	A rating and inspection note for each component, with a dollar impact.	Ratings below the car’s true condition, and notes that don’t match your photos or records.
Comparable vehicles	The cars the value is based on: price, mileage, equipment, source, distance and adjustments.	Different trim, engine or drivetrain, high mileage, distance and old listing dates.
Valuation notes	Tax details and references to the state’s rules.	Tax district, taxable value and whether the state rule cited applies.
Supplemental information	In the sample, a third-party vehicle history summary.	Damage, accident or title records that aren’t yours.

8 checks to find errors

1. The report summary

Check that the owner, vehicle, loss date and odometer are right. Then read the three values. The base vehicle value comes from the comparables. The adjusted vehicle value adds your car’s condition and certain other attributes, such as refurbishments and after-factory equipment. The total at the bottom comes with a warning: it “may not represent the total of the settlement as other factors (e.g. license and fees) may need to be taken into account.” Compare the total with the offer letter to see which tax and fee lines were added.

2. Vehicle details and VIN

Copy the VIN from your registration and compare it with the report, character by character. Then check the year, trim, body style, engine, transmission and drivetrain. A base trim in place of yours, or a four-cylinder engine in place of a six, lowers every comparable chosen. If you aren’t sure what your car has from the factory, run the VIN through the free NHTSA VIN decoder.

3. The equipment list

The report lists equipment such as leather seats, a sunroof, alloy wheels, heated seats, a premium radio, a trailering package and safety equipment, and shows which comparables have each one. Go through the list against your window sticker, build sheet or purchase paperwork. Anything missing from your car’s column makes the comparables look better equipped than it is, and the difference comes out of your value. Items added after the factory, and refurbishments, can be reported separately, so send receipts.

4. Mileage

Compare the odometer reading with your last service invoice or a dashboard photo. The summary also states how your mileage compares with the average for your vehicle, for example a percentage above or below it. A reading that is too high pushes your value down.

5. Condition ratings

In the sample report, each component (mechanical, tires, paint, body, glass and interior) has a rating, an inspection note and a dollar impact. CCC prices each rating against “Good” condition, and a component rated Good has a $0 impact. Read each note and ask whether it is true of your car. If the notes say your tires were worn and you had replaced them a month earlier, send the receipt. If the car was never inspected and the ratings came from a phone call, say so and ask what they were based on.

6. The comparable vehicles

This section carries the most weight, because the base value is the average of these cars after adjustment. For each one, check:

• Trim, engine and drivetrain, compared with yours.
• Mileage, compared with your odometer reading.
• Distance from your ZIP code. The report shows it, and the search starts where your car is kept.
• Source and date: dealer inventory, an advertisement or a private listing, and when it was last updated. The NAIC model regulation refers to comparable cars available within the last 90 days. See Section 8 of the NAIC model regulation.
• The VIN, so you can search for the actual car.
• List price and, for dealer inventory the vendor has inspected, take price. The report defines take price as what the dealership will accept, though a lower price may be possible through negotiation.

The report also says its comparables “are not intended to be replacement vehicles but are reflective of the market value, and may no longer be available for sale.” If you can’t find any of them for sale at the listed price, that is worth telling the adjuster.

7. The adjustments on each comparable

Each comparable’s price is adjusted for the differences from your car: mileage, equipment and, in some reports, a projected sold adjustment. Check the direction first. A comparable with fewer miles than yours should be adjusted down, and one with more miles up. Then check the size. An adjustment that looks too small or too large for the item is worth asking about.

A projected sold adjustment reduces the price to reflect that buyers often negotiate. CCC’s valuation glossary describes it as an adjustment to reflect consumer purchasing behavior. It is reasonable to ask the adjuster what supports the amount for your local market, and whether it was applied to every comparable.

8. Valuation notes and supplemental pages

The notes show the tax district and the taxable value amount, and they can reference your state’s rules on vehicle value. Make sure the tax district is where you live and that the tax shows up in the settlement. The supplemental pages may include a vehicle history summary. Check that it doesn’t show an accident, damage or title record that isn’t yours, since that can pull a value down.

What to do when you find an error

1. Write down the page and line for each error, with what it says and what is correct. Our list of valuation errors and the proof that fixes them shows what to look for.
2. Collect proof for each: the window sticker, a VIN decode, receipts, service records and dated photos.
3. Email the adjuster, one error per line, and ask for a corrected valuation report in writing.
4. If you want to see how the comparables compare with the market, upload your report for a free review.
5. If the insurer won’t correct the value, the appraisal clause in your policy may let you bring in an independent appraiser.

If the errors are large, or the comparables are weak and the adjuster won’t move, you can also request a certified appraisal. We explain the fees before you commit to anything.

Common questions

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This article is general information, not legal advice. Total loss rules and policy terms vary by state and by insurer. Check your policy and your state insurance department for what applies to your claim.